For the discerning traveler or architecture enthusiast, Iceland offers more than just glaciers and volcanic black sands.
Nestled into the rolling green hillsides are the Icelandic Turf Houses (torfbæir)—masterpieces of vernacular architecture that represent a thousand-year-old struggle for harmony with nature.
In an age of glass and steel, these "living" buildings offer a profound sense of groundedness. If you are seeking a travel experience that prioritizes soul over spectacle, understanding these turf dwellings is essential.
Why Turf Houses Are the Soul of Iceland
For centuries, Iceland lacked the timber and stone resources found in mainland Europe.
The Pain Point: The "Over-Touristed" Generic Experience
Many affluent travelers visit Iceland only to find themselves in modern hotels that look exactly like the ones in London or New York. The soul of the country feels distant.
The Solution: Architectural Immersion
By seeking out and understanding Icelandic Turf Houses, you transition from a mere spectator to a participant in Icelandic history. These structures offer:
Natural Insulation: Quiet, cozy interiors that muffle the howling winds.
Environmental Harmony: Buildings that disappear into the landscape.
Historical Continuity: A direct link to the Viking Age.
The Anatomy of a Turf House
Understanding how these structures are built enhances your appreciation when you stand before one. They are not merely "dirt huts"; they are sophisticated engineering feats.
The Material Layers
The Foundation: Usually a base of flat volcanic rocks to prevent moisture from seeping up.
The Wooden Frame: An internal skeleton (often made of precious driftwood) that supports the weight.
The Turf Blocks: Hand-cut "bricks" of peat and grass roots, laid in herringbone patterns (klömbruhnaus).
| Feature | Description | Benefit |
| Wall Thickness | Often 1 to 2 meters thick | Incredible thermal mass and insulation. |
| Roofing | Layers of bark and turf | Natural drainage and wind resistance. |
| The Badstofa | The main living/sleeping area | Centralized heat from communal living. |
Evolution of the Turf House: From Longhouses to Manors
The style of these buildings didn't stay static. As Icelandic society evolved, so did its homes.
The Viking Longhouse (9th - 11th Century)
The earliest versions were massive, single-room halls. Life revolved around a central fire pit (langeldur).
The "Bursts" Style (18th - 19th Century)
As you visit sites like Glaumbær, you will see the "Gable-end" style. These look like a row of small houses joined by internal corridors. This design allowed for better organization: a room for the forge, a room for food storage, and a room for the family.
"The turf house was not just a shelter; it was a member of the family. It grew, it settled, and it required care, just like the sheep and the people it protected." — Local Heritage Guide
Where to Experience the Best Icelandic Turf Houses
If you are planning a route through Iceland, these are the non-negotiable stops for a premium, authentic experience.
1. Glaumbær Farm & Museum (North Iceland)
Perhaps the most iconic site. This is a sprawling farmhouse complex with sections dating back to the 18th century. The yellow-painted wooden gables provide a stunning contrast against the deep green turf.
2. Laufás (Near Akureyri)
A "wealthy" example of a turf manor. It showcases how the upper class lived, with intricate wood carvings and larger communal spaces.
3. Keldur (South Iceland)
One of the oldest remaining turf houses in the country. It even features an ancient escape tunnel, a relic from the turbulent Saga Age.
4. Skógar Museum
Located right by the famous Skógafoss waterfall, this site offers a meticulously restored look at how commoners lived, complete with period-accurate interiors.
The Modern Revival: Why We Care Now
In the 20th century, turf houses were seen as a sign of poverty. Today, they are a symbol of ultimate sustainability.
Important Note for Visitors
Respect the Fragility: Turf houses are living organisms. The grass is delicate, and the walls can shift.
Always stay on marked paths and never climb on the roofs, no matter how tempting the photo might be.
Sustainable Luxury
Modern Icelandic architects are now looking back at turf technology to design eco-friendly, carbon-neutral homes.
Choosing Your Turf Experience: A Comparison for Travelers
Depending on your schedule and interest level, here is how to prioritize your visits:
| Site Name | Best For | Accessibility |
| Árbær Open Air Museum | Quick visit from Reykjavik | Very High |
| Glaumbær | Photography & History Depth | Medium (North) |
| Þjóðveldisbærinn | Viking Age Reconstruction | High (Golden Circle) |
| Laufás | Luxury/Wealthy History | Medium (Near Akureyri) |
How to Document Your Visit (The Aesthetic Guide)
For those seeking to capture the beauty of these structures, lighting is everything.
The Golden Hour: The texture of the turf walls comes alive during the low-hanging sun of the Icelandic summer.
The Contrast: Focus on the juxtaposition of the soft, organic grass against the sharp, dark volcanic mountains in the background.
Interior Mood: Use a wide-aperture lens to capture the dim, cozy "hygge" (or notalegt in Icelandic) atmosphere of the low-ceilinged rooms.
Frequently Asked Questions
Are people still living in turf houses today?
While most are now museums or protected heritage sites, a few individuals still maintain private turf structures for storage or outbuildings.
However, the modern "turf house" has evolved into high-end eco-villas that use similar insulation principles.
Are they cold inside?
Surprisingly, no. Turf is one of the best natural insulators on Earth. Even when it is -10°C outside, the interior remains at a stable, manageable temperature, requiring very little fuel to heat.
When is the best time to visit?
Summer (June–August) offers the most vibrant green colors. However, visiting in late autumn provides a moody, golden aesthetic as the grass turns to hay colors, reflecting the "sleeping" nature of the landscape.
Final Thoughts: A Connection to the Earth
The Icelandic Turf House is a reminder that true luxury doesn't always require imported marble or soaring glass.
Sometimes, the most sophisticated way to live is to tuck yourself quietly into the landscape, protected by the very earth you walk upon.
When you visit these sites, take a moment to turn off your camera. Step inside, smell the faint scent of earth and aged wood, and listen to the silence that only a meter of turf can provide.